Search, Fundi, and Hugo Boss as a designer brand coach listed bees as buyers of raw materials obtained from the forest destroyed in Parara for the northern Brazilian kingdom to host the United Nations Climate Conference, COP30 in November.
Allegations, which most companies refuse, Detailed in a report published by EarthsightThe UK-based non-profitable environment and injustice focus on investigation. Their findings attract thousands of Brazilian leather exports, data on cattle, court decisions, satellite images, as well as interviews and on-the-gold research.
“Consumers probably hopes that when purchasing a luxury product, some level of morality and stability of high value tag is guaranteed,” Lara Shirra White, the researcher of Earthstie told DW. “They do not expect leather bags that may be associated with deforestation and human rights violations.”
The NGO warns of products made from cattle skins on emerged fields for environmental violations. Some illegally illegally deprived of Para’s Apereva indigenous region, which was heavy during Jer Bolsono’s presidency.
As part of its research, separated the commercial operations of frigol, a Brazilian meatpacking company recognized one of the buyers of cattle cattle in the region.
The report states that at least 17,000 animals were sold between 2020 and 2023, which is “sufficient to produce 425 tonnes.”
Researchers connect some of those cattle with illegal fields, but say it is not possible to determine that the Left Apereva, in the part -in the part -call frigol themselves “do not know most of its indirect suppliers.”
It states that this difference in reporting leaves the company’s “supply chain as unsafe for widespread practice of ‘cattle laundering’, in which cows from illegal fields are first transferred to legally registered predecessors.
Senior researcher at Paulo Barretto, Brazil’s Protection and Sustainable Development Institute of Man and Environment of the Amazon (Imazon) said that control over indirect suppliers is non-existence or inclination.
“As a result, cattle enter the illegally harvested areas such as they were legal. The lack of a transparent public system about the origin of cattle makes it difficult to control.”
However, Frigol told DW via email that it does not buy cattle from indigenous land and monitors 100% of its direct suppliers.
“We are committed to working closely with industry institutions, production chains and public authorities,” the company said in a statement. Saying that it assumes that “only individual traceability of animals for socio-environmental purposes will make it possible to reduce forest harvesting in all links of cattle supply chain.”
Brazilian leather, Italian reputation
According to Earth’s research, after killing animals in frigol features, one percent of Kavsin is exported. In part by Brazilian leather company Duralicoros, which hid between 2020 and 2023 in 14.700 tonnes of Italy. Some of them, found in the report, went to Christina and Faida for European tanner.
Research lists high -end names such as coaches, rudi, chlo, Hugo Boss and St. Lauren. Meanwhile, according to Faida, investigation, the channel provides leather to brands such as Balesiaga and Gucci.
In response to a DW request for the comment, the channel quoted deforestation as a “major concern” and said it no longer works with FAEDA due to traceability requirements. “92% Calfskin we are derived from Europe, and we audit to slaughter and fields outside Europe to ensure that they are not in deforestation areas.”
The Kairing Group, who owns Balesiaga, Gucci and St. Laurent, told DW that the report is the mental supplier of two Italian companies in the report, “Whatever the caring house he provides does not come from Brazil.”
Based on the findings of the Earthstie, Hugo Boss issued a statement to say that he had made a detailed review, and “may confirm that none of the leather” is “it is not supplied” is associated with any of the alleged parties in relation to the investigation. ”
LVMH, who owns FENDi and Louis Vuitton, states that it has a system capable of detecting the origin of 98% of leather used in its products and is not its source from South America. And the Tapestry, who owns the coach brand, wrote to the DW game that the system to track raw materials in Brazil is “complex and incomplete,” it is “it” working “part of the solution of improvised and transparency”.
Cloe, Connaria Christina and Feda did not respond to the request to comment at the time of publication.
Fault in certification system
Durlicouros told DW that it tracks its indirect suppliers and participates in the discussion on state and national models for complete traceability and compliance.
“In addition, all durlicorose features are certified by leather working groups (LWG), which ensures high standards of stability, traceability and environmental responsibility according to the purpose of each feature.”
But Earthstsight Researer Lara Shirra White said that companies often use certification for fasting for the morality and stability of themselves, “to ensure that they are” supply-free “instead of working hard to supply chains. ,
She says that the problem with the LWG established in 2005 is that “it does not require traceability back into the fields,” and therefore may not be responsible for the misuse of environment and human rights in the area to be raised by cattle.
LWG told DW that it is “increasing proper diligence requirements related to deforestation and land conversion, which would include” a series of detention systems that would support more detailed traceability in the leather value chain. “
Can there come a change through Europe?
There is a hope that the European Union deforestation may contribute to replacement of regulation (EUDR). After a delay of 12 months, due to the end of the old this year, it will ban the purchase of products arising from the destroyed forest AES.
Earth’s researcher Rafael Peeroni told DW, “We hope that the law will be implemented on time, despite some areas of the industry, somehow, somehow, to exclude leather from the scope of law,” Rofel Peeroni, a researcher of Earth -websites told DW.
But he said that the report has a message for the Brazilian government. “This should implement traceability and make all data public. In its investigation, transparency is the best way to avoid all those illegalities.”
This article was published in Portuguese.
Edited by: Tamsin Walker
