On a cool afternoon in Leh, the capital of Ladakh, India, the district court was unusually crowded.
About 39 men stood in the open, talking in hushed voices – a rare sight in an area where crime rates are among the lowest in the country.
He was arrested on charges of violence during last month’s deadly protests that called for greater autonomy and statehood for the Buddhist-Muslim region in the Himalayas, which shares borders with both China and Pakistan.
The protesters are also demanding job quotas for local residents and a special status for Ladakh that would allow the creation of elected local bodies to protect its tribal areas.
Although these people have been released on bail, there is a deep sense of uncertainty.
Among them was Thinles Dorje, who had a fearless expression on his face. When others were hesitant to speak, Dorje stepped forward and said loudly, “It is time to break the silence.”
Dorje said he was arrested while returning home from work. He denies taking part in the violence but admits that anger has been simmering in Ladakh for years.
“For the past few years, no one was listening to our demands and there were delays in talks with the central government,” he told DW. “What we saw … was years of anger and frustration that burst forth on the day of protest.”
Standing next to Thinlesh Dorje was former soldier Tundup Namgyal, who alleged that he was asked about “Chinese and Pakistani funding” during questioning by Ladakh police and even claimed to have been called “anti-national” by officers – a label that has angered and hurt many in the region.
Dorje and others expressed dismay at being accused of collusion with foreign elements.
“We feel very sad when we are labeled anti-nationals. Our people have sacrificed their lives for this country and now we are being treated like criminals,” Dorje told DW.
He recalls how his family and neighbors voluntarily served in the Indian Army, especially during the so-called Kargali conflict with Pakistan in 1999, when the two countries, being nuclear-armed, clashed.
For example, almost every family has supported the armed forces by providing supplies or providing vital border intelligence, locals told DW.
Why are people protesting in Ladakh?
The roots of the current discontent go back to 2019, when India’s Hindu-nationalist government revoked the special autonomous status of the nearby Muslim-majority state of Jammu and Kashmir.
The move made Ladakh a separate union territory, meaning it is directly governed by the Indian central government in New Delhi.
Locals in Buddhist-majority Leh celebrated the move, hoping it would bring autonomy and development.
However, after a few years, enthusiasm faded as promises were not fulfilled, leading to widespread unemployment. Unfulfilled promises ultimately led to protests on 24 September.
Members at the office of the Leh Apex Body, the main group campaigning for autonomy for Ladakh, say New Delhi’s “negligence” and “unfulfilled promises” have deepened mistrust.
“Our demands for statehood and greater autonomy will continue,” he told DW. He said that their demands are very important to protect the ethnic population.
“The specific demand for autonomy will help us control our land, local customs and protect our region, which is ecologically fragile, from exploitation and outsiders.”
protests turn deadly
India’s Home Ministry said the 24 September protests were triggered by “provocative” speeches by climate activist Sonam Wangchuk, who had been on hunger strike since 10 September.
Due to this, the organizers called for a local bandh and the protesters took to the streets.
Angered by what protesters described as government “indifference”, the demonstration turned violent.
The mob set fire to government buildings in Leh, including the local office of India’s ruling Bharatiya Janata Party (BJP).
A police vehicle was also set on fire and more than 30 police and personnel were injured, officials said. Locals say security forces opened fire, killing four and injuring dozens.
“I am angry at the way the police handled it,” said Deskit Angmo, a resident of Leh. “The people were unarmed. It was an illegal use of force on us.”
Wangchuk is in jail under the National Security Act on charges of inciting violence – a charge he strongly denies.
Immediately after the violence, Leh came to a standstill with curfew and internet shutdown and dozens of people detained on charges of rioting and arson.
In the district jail of Leh, an elderly man is standing at the gate talking to the guard. It is the third time this week that Tsering Dorje has come in the hope of seeing his son, who is one of those arrested. Since his detention he has been allowed to meet him only once.
“We are very worried,” he said quietly. “My wife and daughter miss him very much. He was arrested without doing anything wrong,” Tsering told DW as he waited to meet his son.
Locals fear increasing isolation
Ladakh is located on the northern border of India, on the border of China and Pakistan. Analysts warn that New Delhi’s approach risks alienating the very population that serves as its first line of defense.
Historian and political analyst Siddiq Wahid said, “Any sense of alienation must be addressed immediately – trust is the foundation.” “Ladakh has shown trust in New Delhi for 75 years. It would be worrying if that trust is lost.”
Many locals say that although the region plays a vital role in India’s national security, its people are politically voiceless, a contradiction that fuels both anger and frustration.
In 2020, Indian and Chinese troops clashed face-to-face in the Galwan Valley, leading to casualties on both sides. The incident is one of the deadliest confrontations between the two neighbors in four decades and has underlined the strategic weakness of Ladakh.
A meeting was going on between government officials and local representatives at the Ladakh Police Headquarters.
DW tried to talk to the director general responsible for security. He declined to comment, and DW’s request for an interview with New Delhi’s representative in the region, the lieutenant governor, was also declined.
Councilor Tashi Gyalson, the BJP representative in Ladakh and chief executive of a local autonomous body, acknowledged the public’s disappointment.
“Yes, there was anger,” Gyalson said. “But we never imagined such violence, such anger. Everyone must take some responsibility. Mistakes were made, willingly or not,” he told DW.
Back at home, Thinles Dorje sits down with his wife and daughter, and shares his experiences in court. He says he is worried but determined.
Dorje said, looking at his daughter, “All of our demands are for the future – for my children and the generations after them.” “This struggle will continue.”
Edited by: Keith Walker